This powered converter adapts import and domestic vehicles with separate turn and stop lights (3-wire system) to standard trailer tail light wiring (2-wire system). The unit is powered directly from your battery, elminiating the current draw from your vehicle's stop/turn light circuit. This protects your vehicle's sensitive electronics, ensures that sufficient current is available to the trailer, keeps the trailer lights burning bright, and allows vehicle bulb-out detectors to function properly.
This 10 Amp unit is CURT's medium duty model. It is ideal for applications with somewhat higher current loads.
Calculating Your Current Requirements:
You can calculate your trailer's current requirements using the following approximations. Simply figure out how many of each light type you have and add up the total current draw to select which model you need.
-- Each stop/turn light pair: 2 Amps
-- Each tail light pair: 1 Amp
-- Each pair of clearance/market lights: 1/2Amp
-- 3 to 2 wire conversion
-- Ring terminal Lead wire and fuse hilder.
-- Input Connector: Splice-in
-- Output Connector: Splice-in
-- Power Connector: Spade Connector
-- Load Capacity: 10 Amps
-- ATC20 Fuse included
-- No HD flasher or converter required
-- Separate power circuit eliminates current draw from taillight circuit
Manufacturer: Curt Manufacturing
Installed easily and works great on my 07 Montego. Hardest part was was running wire to battery from trunk.
Upon speaking with a representative, I learned how the wiring harness would work with the trailer I was traveling to Georgia to purchase. As I arrived at the manufacturing plant, I connected the harness and it worked just as was specified.
Really easy to install on my BMW 335i - less tha 30 minutes.
You need to have some type of elctrical tester and you need a fused batery connection that is not supplied with the harness.
It works as expected, no problems.
This worked fine on my Subaru 2005 2.5i wagon. There is a harness with a 6 prong plug on the driver's side, but it's hard to find. With the side and floor panel removed, the harness loop is hanging down in that 1/2" opening by the floor. Once you get that out, it has all of the wires including hot, ground and passenger blinker. I cut a slit in the bottom plug under the spare to hold the wires to the trailer, and ended up with a clean install. See this link for photos and info (thanks to the LegacyGT forum).
Good product - I had one similar to this installed by a dealer, and after 5-6 years, it went bad - so replacing the old one was easy. Initial installation would have been much more difficult - especially with the identification of which wires go to what as they come out of the taillight assembly. If you can obtain that information - installation is a breeze....