by Howard Reynolds | Date Added: Tuesday, May 4, 2010
I installed the kit in a 2006 Toyota Sienna. It was an easy installation and took about 1 hour to complete. The kit was the perfect length and the only customizing I had to do was to drill a couple of small holes over the tail pipe to so that I could wire tie the wiring to the frame and not allow the wiring to come in contact with the hot tail pipe. The instructions were clear and correct. I did not drill a hole for the ground wire, I attached it to the jack storage rack frame which showed a real good ground on my electrical meter. The connection plugs were a perfect fit and worked properly. I would recommend this product to anyone who wanted to install a wiring harness.
by Jake Mangels | Date Added: Friday, July 13, 2007
I installed this kit in a 2004 Toyota Sienna minivan but these tips should work for anyone with a 2004 or newer model. Installation was surprisingly easy once I figured out the best way to route all the wiring (the instructions don't tell you and it took me several tries before I figured out the best way.) I managed to conceal everything except for a couple of inches of wiring but that exposed wiring is out of the way and inconspicuous. As for tools you'll need a socket or nut driver (11mm I believe), flat screwdriver, Phillips screwdriver, drill outfitted with a 3/32 bit, wire coat hanger and some electrical tape. Give yourself an hour but it probably won't take that long. Here's how I did it.
1) Start by removing the driver-side tail light. There are two screws on the back side you'll need to remove. Then pull outwards (not back) on the tail light. There are a couple of pressure clips that keep it secured to the chassis so you just need to give it a good pull. Then disconnect it from the vehicle wiring harness and set aside.
2) Route the driver-side wiring harness connector through the opening for the liftgate hydraulics and feed it to the tail light housing. I straightened a wire coat hanger and taped the harness to it to make this job easier. You only need to fish it about 10-12". Splice it in using the connectors and reattach the tail light. Be sure to give a couple of light pulls on the loose end of the harness to remove any wire slack because you'll need it for the next step.
3) Route the wiring along the perimeter of the bottom half of the liftgate opening. Conceal it behind the rubber and plastic border mouldings. The flat screwdriver helps with this task. The harness should be just long enough to get you down and all the way across the back to the removable access panel on the passenger side where the jack is stored. You will have to route the wiring under a small section of plastic cargo moulding to get to the access panel but it is not a problem.
4) Remove the access panel. This is where I stashed the rest of the wiring (except, of course, for the trailer harness). If you look in the upper right there is a small section of thin flat metal framing - a perfect place to mount the ground wire. Drill the hole and use the included screw to secure it. Route the passenger-side lighting harness and connect it using the same methodology as the driver-side. Then bundle the excess wire together using the included wire ties remembering to leave the trailer harness loose!
5) Route the trailer harness back out of the access panel and back under the plastic cargo moulding down to the floor carpeting. Then replace the access panel. A couple of inches of the inbound/outbound wiring will be exposed between the access panel and cargo moulding. I just left them that way but you can cover them with tape or something if you think it is necessary or just can't stand the sight of wires. The floor carpeting pulls back very easily from underneath the cargo moulding so routing the trailer harness under it to the center bumper is a snap. There is a round rubber knockout in the center of the bottom frame that you can remove, route the harness through, and replace for a nice clean finish.
Toyota engineers definitely made this installation easier than it might be on other types of vehicles though I'll admit this is the first time I ever tried installing one of these so I have no frame of reference. Still, that should tell you that you can handle this job on your own without paying someone $50/hour to do it for you.
Hope this helps. Happy towing!!
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